First of all, inspecting the driveshaft to see if all the components are there, if there is corrosion, cracks or chips and do the joints pivot. If the phasing on the driveshaft is incorrect take out the driveshaft and adjust it until is it positioned correctly. correcting the imbalance of the driveshaft is done by welding weight on to the higher part of the unbalanced place to balance it out. On the driveshaft i have, it is needed to add weight to balance it. The Universal joint operated smoothely. the condition of the universal joint is poor. The yoke is damaged badly, there are alot of bearing needles missing and the seal is broken. removing the joint was dificult as the last bearing was hard to tap out because the casing was damaged and the bearings were being jammed. The overall condition is very poor and neesd to be replaced. Reassembiling the universal joints was difficult as the surface needed to be sanded and resurfaced.
in conclusion the joint needs to be replaced , there is no point in reconditioning it.
Thursday, June 16, 2011
CV Joints
There are two types of Constant Velocity joints. A Outer and an Inner joint.
First thing that i did was check th at there is smooth operation of the velocity joint and there was. and the play did not exceed the specification. Then i visually checked the rubber seals and boots for damage and there was small amout of wear. On the Inner race there was minimal amount of damage but the cage had alot of cracks and chips so a new cage was required. Once the CV joint was dimantled fully, i cleaned the join of old grease and oil so that inspecion of the joint would be easier. my report on the components is
Outer Race : Scratches
Inner Race : Scratches and chips
Ball cage : chips and scratches
Ball/Rollers : Scratches and corrosion
Splines : Very damaged (need replacing)
Threads : Damaged ( needs replacing)
Circlips : N/A (needs Circlips)
Circlips grooves : damaged ( needs reconditioning)
Action that is needed to be taken to fix the faults on this CV joint is to replace and rethread every component. Or just purchase a new one.
First thing that i did was check th at there is smooth operation of the velocity joint and there was. and the play did not exceed the specification. Then i visually checked the rubber seals and boots for damage and there was small amout of wear. On the Inner race there was minimal amount of damage but the cage had alot of cracks and chips so a new cage was required. Once the CV joint was dimantled fully, i cleaned the join of old grease and oil so that inspecion of the joint would be easier. my report on the components is
Outer Race : Scratches
Inner Race : Scratches and chips
Ball cage : chips and scratches
Ball/Rollers : Scratches and corrosion
Splines : Very damaged (need replacing)
Threads : Damaged ( needs replacing)
Circlips : N/A (needs Circlips)
Circlips grooves : damaged ( needs reconditioning)
Action that is needed to be taken to fix the faults on this CV joint is to replace and rethread every component. Or just purchase a new one.
Differentials Week 3
Mitsibishi L300 Banjo wagon was writen on the dif in twink. The dif is a Hypoid non limited slip.
identification on the housing caps was twink and punched . The crownwheel and pinion had marked 1,2,3 marked on them with twink so when reassembiling matching them together is possible. Visually inspected the crownwheel teeth for cracks and chips and there were none so the crownwheel is in good condition. The thread is okay the the crownwheel bolts but one was slightly rounded at the head. the thread in the case is good and has no wear.
The outer bearing ont he inner pinion slides easy because it is worn and the bearing cone is corroded and rusted on the inside with a broken spring and seal.
The side gears have a few scratches and the side gear thrusts have scratches with a small amount of wear on the side with cips on the inner. The spider gears are in good condition and the spider gear thrusts are missing.
the roll pin is worn with scratches and chips. The cross shaft has minor scratches. The case on the spider gear side is slightly scuffed.
The final drive ratio is 43/11=3.9= 3.9:1
Side gear backlash is No1: 0.1mm No2:0.1mm the spec for this is 0.1mm-0.2mm
The bearing preload keeps is secure from moving and the backlash gives room for oil and heat expansion. The bearing didn't have a locknut eitherside to stop it from moving under load.
A good way to set the preload is remembering this saying.
Face or Flank = move the crank (pinion)
Toe and heel = move the wheel (crownwheel)
Checking the tooth contact marking with lead paint and a DTi gauge. The specs for this i s0.13-0.18mm
Reading 1= 0.16
2=0.15
3=0.13
4=0.14
identification on the housing caps was twink and punched . The crownwheel and pinion had marked 1,2,3 marked on them with twink so when reassembiling matching them together is possible. Visually inspected the crownwheel teeth for cracks and chips and there were none so the crownwheel is in good condition. The thread is okay the the crownwheel bolts but one was slightly rounded at the head. the thread in the case is good and has no wear.
The outer bearing ont he inner pinion slides easy because it is worn and the bearing cone is corroded and rusted on the inside with a broken spring and seal.
The side gears have a few scratches and the side gear thrusts have scratches with a small amount of wear on the side with cips on the inner. The spider gears are in good condition and the spider gear thrusts are missing.
the roll pin is worn with scratches and chips. The cross shaft has minor scratches. The case on the spider gear side is slightly scuffed.
The final drive ratio is 43/11=3.9= 3.9:1
Side gear backlash is No1: 0.1mm No2:0.1mm the spec for this is 0.1mm-0.2mm
The bearing preload keeps is secure from moving and the backlash gives room for oil and heat expansion. The bearing didn't have a locknut eitherside to stop it from moving under load.
A good way to set the preload is remembering this saying.
Face or Flank = move the crank (pinion)
Toe and heel = move the wheel (crownwheel)
Checking the tooth contact marking with lead paint and a DTi gauge. The specs for this i s0.13-0.18mm
Reading 1= 0.16
2=0.15
3=0.13
4=0.14
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Automatic Transmission: Torque converter.
The major parts of a automatic transmission are:
-The torque converter which multiplys torque.
-The oil pump that lubricates the system
-Plantary gears the change the gear ratio
-Input shaft which controls the engines power
-The Clutch locks the components
-Bands that hold the components in place.
-Govenor operates the oil pressure
-Valve body decides what gear to select.
We Dismantled a torque converter and there was no rust or corrosion present. No visual or damaage diaognosed for the inside of the torque converter. The Torque converter consists of three main parts. Impeller, stator and turbine. The stator which is between the impeller and the turbine works on magnifying the torque when you accelerate. When that car is travelling at low speeds the stator will remain stationary against the flow of the transmission fluid.
We struggled in removing the Rear band from the casing of the automatic transmission to remove the front clutch housing.
-The torque converter which multiplys torque.
-The oil pump that lubricates the system
-Plantary gears the change the gear ratio
-Input shaft which controls the engines power
-The Clutch locks the components
-Bands that hold the components in place.
-Govenor operates the oil pressure
-Valve body decides what gear to select.
We Dismantled a torque converter and there was no rust or corrosion present. No visual or damaage diaognosed for the inside of the torque converter. The Torque converter consists of three main parts. Impeller, stator and turbine. The stator which is between the impeller and the turbine works on magnifying the torque when you accelerate. When that car is travelling at low speeds the stator will remain stationary against the flow of the transmission fluid.
We struggled in removing the Rear band from the casing of the automatic transmission to remove the front clutch housing.
Manual Transmission Week 1
Dismantled the manual transmission, which was difficult as it hadn't been dismantled before. found that the thread on the bolts had locktight on them and a few of the bolts became slightly rounded. Started using the 12point socket but it didnt have enough hold on the bolt, so used the 6point hexaganal which had a better grip.
Visually inspected all the parts. The tooth count came back good and the side clearances met the specifications from first to fifth gear, reverse gear, reverse idler, final driver gear, final driven gear, differential and speedometer.
For the synchro system and gears, visually inspecting them for cracks, chips and scratches is the first thing that is required. The baulk rings first to fifth gear side clearances were check and all fell within specification. The circlips need replacing as they have corroded and become brittle. Circlips are needed to hold the components in place.
The spines have little wear and the teeth are in good condition with no chips, scratches or cracks. The housing has a small amount of scatches but will not effect the way it will operate. The breather, seals, threaded holes and bolts are all in good condition and not needed to be replaced.
The gear Ratio formula is Driven / Driver =
First gear: 38/12=3.16
Second gear: 40/21=1.904
Third gear: 38/32=1.181
Fourth gear: 31/38=0.815
Fifth gear: 33/38=0.868
Reverse gear: 39/12=3.25
Final drive; 69/17=4.058
In conclusion the manual transmission that i assessed is in working condition with only minor replacements needed. Only being the circlips.
Visually inspected all the parts. The tooth count came back good and the side clearances met the specifications from first to fifth gear, reverse gear, reverse idler, final driver gear, final driven gear, differential and speedometer.
For the synchro system and gears, visually inspecting them for cracks, chips and scratches is the first thing that is required. The baulk rings first to fifth gear side clearances were check and all fell within specification. The circlips need replacing as they have corroded and become brittle. Circlips are needed to hold the components in place.
The spines have little wear and the teeth are in good condition with no chips, scratches or cracks. The housing has a small amount of scatches but will not effect the way it will operate. The breather, seals, threaded holes and bolts are all in good condition and not needed to be replaced.
The gear Ratio formula is Driven / Driver =
First gear: 38/12=3.16
Second gear: 40/21=1.904
Third gear: 38/32=1.181
Fourth gear: 31/38=0.815
Fifth gear: 33/38=0.868
Reverse gear: 39/12=3.25
Final drive; 69/17=4.058
In conclusion the manual transmission that i assessed is in working condition with only minor replacements needed. Only being the circlips.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)